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Region guide
The Mediterranean you haven’t ruined yet.
Ninety kilometres of Ionian coastline, between Vlorë and Sarandë, where the Ceraunian mountains drop straight into turquoise water. This is the stretch of Albania that made the country’s last decade of tourism — Ksamil’s offshore islets, Dhërmi and Himarë in the middle, and the switchback drive over the Llogara Pass at the northern end. It still feels cheaper than anywhere in the Aegean. It won’t, for long.

Port town on the southern Ionian, twenty minutes from Corfu by ferry. The seafront for seafood, Butrint's UNESCO ruins 18km south, and the Blue Eye spring inland. Still cheaper than Greece.

Where the Adriatic meets the Ionian, and where Albania declared independence in 1912. A long corniche for sunset walks, flamingos on Narta lagoon, and the start of the Riviera drive south.